Sleeve and Dart Rule
The Kellogg French Tailor System Pat. Dec. 25, 1883 Mme Kellogg, Inventor and Patentee, Battle Creek, MI This patent was produced as "Mme. Kellogg's French Tailor's System". The actual inventor was a man named Francis "Frank" Jonas Kellogg from Battle Creek MI. Apparently he felt the tool would sell better to seamstresses if it had a woman's name on it. Francis married Minnie L. Hebb in 1894, more than a decade after "Mme. Kellogg" invented her system. Maybe his mother, Sophia H. Tewksbury (1821 - 1906), was the brains behind the brawn. Francis was brazen enough to include an illustration of "The Inventor" in the front pages of his tailor system. "Professor" Francis Jonas Kellogg's was a well-known huckster and purveyor of patent medicines such as Sanitone Wafers, Malto-Fructo, and Rengo. He was no relation to the Kellogg bothers that ran the famous Battle Creek sanitarium (and went on to form a cereal empire), but apparently used the name and location to lend legitimacy to his medicine business. Source: Directory of American Tool and Machinery Parts |
Scientific Tailor System of Dress-Cutting
Miss S. A. Nickerson, Inventor Providence, R.I. 1889 Unlike Frank J. Kellogg, Miss Sophie A. Nickerson was an actual seamstress, who operated a dress making school in Providence, RI. during the late 19th c. I've been unable to find more of her personal history to share how she came to open her business and develop her patterning system. She lived in Providence the rest of her life and never married. In the 1920 Census, at the age of 62, she is listed as an "Ostrich Feather Dresser". Brisé fan with ostrich feathers, early 1900s -RISD, Beauty in Hand Exhibit
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The Providence Directory, July1, 1885
"Artistic Dress Cutting - Miss Sophie A. Nickerson -
Improved Tailor System of Artistic Dress Cutting - 91 Westminster St.. Providence, RI" 91 Westminster St.. Providence, RI was occupied by Wm Barstow's carpetings, floor oil cloths, and upholstery goods, before Sophie transformed it into her dress cutting school.
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Cutting a Fashionable Fit: Dressmakers' Drafting
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Click on the book for a free PDF
copy of the book from the Smithsonian |
Mrs. Harry A. Ross - Instructions for Using Mrs. Ross' Tailor System, for Cutting Ladies' and Children's Garments of All Kinds, Battle Creek, MI. 1882.
The Ross Tailor System of Garment Cutting by Actual Measurements, Battle Creek, MI. 1887. Source: Cutting for All: The Sartorial Arts, Related Crafts, & the Commercial Paper Pattern, Kevin L. Seligman, 1996, p. 75 Mrs. Harry A. Ross, a.k.a. Clara Sylvia Matthews (1855 - 1919), is listed as "keeping house", and Harry is listed as a "moulder" in several census records. Maybe this was a husband and wife collaborative effort, or, maybe,Harry was following Frank Kellogg's lead.
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Source: Cutting a Fashionable Fit: Dressmakers' Drafting
Systems in the U.S. - Claudia Bruch Kidwell |
Harper's Bazaar, Volume 20, p. 644, 1887
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